The Zantho 2006 Zweigelt – once again the standout in this series – is brimming with sappy, rich, bright cherry, raspberry and rhubarb, all wreathed in smoke and dusted with brown spices; retains lovely purity on the palate, and finishes with verve, refreshment, and an invigorating combination of tart fruit skin, salt, and brown spice pungency. Enjoy it by the end of 2009 for best effect. The collaboration between Josef Umathum (many of whose recent wines are reported on in this issue) and the growers’ cooperative Andlau on the Hungarian border, Zantho has been offering some excellent values, and now includes small amounts of Gruner Veltliner, Mucat Ottonel, and nobly sweet wine from other Burgenland sources. But the concentration here is on red, and all three indigenous varieties are rendered in versions that represent very good values.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334 6700