Brundlmayer’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben is stuffed with apples, sage, fennel, and black pepper and dripping with juices like some little, honey-glazed game bird coming out of the oven. Think of it as one of those cases of Gruner Veltliner-meets-Chablis, as there is palpable chalkiness here, too. Ester-filled, rich, yet refined, this finishes long on mineral, animal, and herbal nuances. The 2002 – which was re-released eighteen months ago (and reviewed in Issue 166) – is even better today. Count on enjoying this 2006 anytime over the next decade. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300