Weingut Brundlmayer Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein 1OTW Alte Reben, Kamptal, Austria

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Brundlmayer 2010 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben is gorgeously- as well as intriguingly-scented with lilac, chamomile, narcissus, black tea, and fresh lime. Lime and citrus are seemingly suffused with a dynamic abundance of stony, crystalline, iodine-like, and smoky mineral matter on a lush, glycerin-rich, yet vivacious palate, and the long finish is like chomping on flowers and licking stones, even as one enjoys infectious refreshment. Look for at least a decade of dazzling delight from this beauty. (By the way, a 1998 Lyra whose 15+% alcohol and botrytis I frowned on when it was one year old acquitted itself quite nobly and vigorously in June, 2011, displaying the floral and mineral traits for which this site is justly famous, albeit here overlain with honey and fusil oils. This being said, you-re even luckier if you have some of the "regular" 1998 Heiligenstein.) Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Buddleia, freesia, and fennel pollen waft from the glass of 2006 Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben. In the mouth, I was surprised and thrilled by the sort of tingling brightness, delicacy, floral perfume, and finely-edge suggestions of minerals that were so winsome in the Brundlmayer old vines bottlings of the early nineties but have too often been lost in subsequent vintages to sheer opulence, alcoholic weight, or botrytis. Subtle creaminess of texture beautifully sets off the floral, mineral, and bittersweet herbal notes, leading to a subtly honeyed, soothing, persistently floral finish. And make no mistake, this will be even more ravishing in a few years’ time, and one could count on holding it for 10-12 years at least. Bravo! In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300