Vie di Romans Ciantons Mariano del Friuli, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy

维罗曼斯酒庄奇安通斯玛丽安诺桃红葡萄酒

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The 2009 Ciantons is a powerful rose packed with sweet red cherries, rose petals and spices. Very slight elements of volatility appear on the high-toned finish, but there is more than enough sheer depth and richness in the fruit to provide balance. As always, the structure of the Ciantons suggests it is a serious wine meant for the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Proprietor Gianfranco Gallo has a preference for rich, textured wines. In 2009, a year that saw a long heat wave at the end of August, many of his wines are even bigger than they usually are. The best selections, though, possess terrific overall balance. Vie di Romans has a fabulous website (www.viediromans.it) full of technical information on recent vintages and the estate’s wines, among other topics. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife's extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2007 Ciantons Rosato is a very serious rose packed with layers of ripe fruit and expressive aromatics. Rich and expansive on the palate, the 2007 Ciantons possesses impeccable balance and a perfumed, silky finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is one of the leading producers in Friuli. His wines typically seek a rich, lush expression of fruit. In 2007, though, many of the wines come across as overly heavy. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife’s extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

By far the most fascinating rose I tasted this year was Vie di Romans’s 2006 Ciantons. This is a very serious wine made from 100% Merlot. It sees about 24 hours of contact on the skins and is then racked into French oak barrels, where the wine completes alcoholic, and subsequently malolactic fermentation. The wine undergoes frequent batonnage (stirring of the fine lees) for several months prior to being bottled without filtration. It is a rich, weighty wine endowed with an expansive core of perfumed fruit, not to mention the structure to stand up to the richest foods. This is a wine well worth the effort of finding. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. This line-up from Vie di Romans and proprietor Gianfranco Gallo is truly impressive. To be honest, I haven’t always been a huge fan of this estate, but in recent vintages Gallo has made significant strides in quality. In the past Gallo was fanatical about communicating the exact details of vinification and aging for his wines, particularly in the use of cooperage, but he has become somewhat more reluctant, as he found that consumers formed preconceived ideas of what the wines would taste like before trying them. Although it is hard to fault Gallo for that view, it is also inescapable that he bottles large number of different wines and some of his single-varietal wines are made in two versions, so it is only natural that consumers might wonder what the differences are. At the end of the day, however, the wines speak for themselves. These remain some of the richest, lushest wines being made in Friuli, but they are also among the most elegant. Our tasting ended with a few 1996s, and I am pleased to report that the wines are still delicious today. Readers should note that not all of these wines are imported into the US, but they should be available in other markets. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411