Velenosi Ludi Offida Rosso DOCG, Marches, Italy

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From another super heavy bottle, the 2019 Offida Rosso Ludi is a blend of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The effect is bold and bulky with plummy black fruit, baked blackberry, cedarwood, cured leather and baking spice. The wine sports very heavy fruit weight, and there is a touch of bitterness on the close.

Packaged in an exceptionally heavy and environmentally unfriendly glass bottle, the Velenosi 2018 Offida Rosso Ludi is a blend of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that reveals super rich concentration and extraction. It reveals an inky black appearance with bitter tannins, lots of blackberry confit, cinnamon and toasted clove. Oak spice drives this massive wine. It closes with ripe fruit and astringency. The effect is heavy and too oaky.

This is the estate's top-end blend of Montepulciano (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (8%) and Merlot (7%). The Velenosi 2015 Offida Rosso Ludi is a wine of considerable brawn and power. It delivers thick texture that wraps heavily over the palate, with the spice, smoke and tobacco of 18 months in new barrique. This is one of those super exuberant vintages in which the primary fruit comes out on top, no matter how much oak the wine sees. Here's your steak-and-potatoes wine from Le Marche. Some 35,000 bottles were released.

The 2009 Offida Rosso Ludi (50% Montepulciano with Cabernet and Merlot) is another massive wine with inky black concentration and dense aromas of blackberry preserves, leather and moist tobacco. The utter opulence and thickness of the wine means you chew it rather than sip it. Tannic firmness brings all your taste buds to immediate attention. Ludi is built for those who love huge, over-extracted wines, although there are signs that it will grow in elegance with more years of cellar aging.

The 2007 Offida Rosso Ludi, the estate's top red, is Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that spent two years in new oak. Intense and powerful, the Ludi impresses for its balance and sheer personality. Dark fruit, earthiness, wild herbs, tobacco, leather and licorice are some of the aromas and flavors that take shape in the glass as the wine builds to its powerful finish. As good as the Ludi is, my feeling is it could be even better with less of conscious effort to be an attention-grabber. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Reds are the highlights among this year's new releases from Velenosi. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799