Velenosi Roggio del Filare Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC, Marches, Italy

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Packaged in a crazy-heavy custom-made glass bottle, the Velenosi 2019 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio dei Filari is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese. Instead of fruit, you get aromas of the dried skins of cherries and blackberries. Those dried fruit tones are followed by pencil shaving, spice and earth over a full-bodied style.

The Velenosi 2014 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio dei Filari is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese that show large-scale intensity and staying power, with forward momentum pushed by the richness and ample ripeness of the fruit. The mouthfeel is compact and tight, but there is enough tannic structure to pair with some lamb sausages. The wine ages in new French barrique for up to 18 months, so expect a good amount of toast and savory spice on the close. Some 45,000 bottles were made.

A 70/30 blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese, the 2009 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio dei Filari shows a super concentrated black color with purple highlights. The bouquet is saddled with sheer intensity and power (the alcohol is listed at 14.5%) that is off-putting at first. You have to ask what foods you can pair this wine with: What could possibly stand up to the massiveness of Roggio del Filari other than a chunk of aged pecorino cheese? Blackberry concentrate, savory spice and toasted sweet almond all play supporting roles. The tannins are supple and polished, but the structural heft of the wine does not go unnoticed

The 2007 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare is Sangiovese and Montepulciano that spent 18 months in new French oak barrels. It is a plush, opulent wine loaded with dark cherries, spices and licorice, all of which meld together nicely on a full-bodied frame. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Reds are the highlights among this year's new releases from Velenosi. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2005 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare opens with warm, toasty aromas that recall sweet cinnamon rolls baking in the oven. This spiced, jammy red reveals lovely finesse and silky tannins, but a touch less oak might allow the appealing vibrancy of the fruit to shine through with even more clarity. This is another gorgeous red from Velenosi. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. These are the finest wines I have tasted from Velenosi, an emerging producer in the Marche that is very close to making a huge jump in the overall quality of their wines. Each bottle has a different look in terms of its label, and the estate could certainly consider a more consistent look for its packaging, which would make it easier for consumers and the trade to keep track of these wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799