Symington Family Warre's Vintage Port, Douro, Portugal

辛明顿家族华莱仕年份波特酒

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The 2017 Vintage Port is mostly a field blend from old vines (63%), plus 22% Touriga Nacional and 15% Touriga Franca, bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in seasoned vats. The just-bottled sample was not actually used for fear it might be in shock, so this is actually a pre-bottling sample. It comes in with 110 grams of residual sugar. Relatively accessible, this still shows some impressive firmness to go with its fine concentration. An elegant wine this may be, as Charles Symington called it, but it is still admirable for its structure, even if the whole package is a little understated. Its fruit and mid-palate are nicely supported by moderate tannins. It evolves well with air, easily showing vivid and fresh fruit. It is beautifully textured as well. This is a fine Warre's Port, holding its own next to Dow, better than the 2016 Warre and a force in its own right. It is one of the best in a while. It is relatively accessible but not ready. There were 3,600 cases produced.

The 2016 Vintage Port is a 46/37 blend from old vines and Touriga Nacional, with Touriga Franca making up the rest. It was bottled in May 2018 with 113 grams of residual sugar. The fruit on this is gloriously expressive and concentrated. It's classic and delicious, but it doesn't show the power and structure of the top wines. Charles Symington called it very elegant. Or, say, understated and approachable. It is pretty delicious, though, and I have to give this some props just because it is. Don't expect it to be the best ager in the group. There were 4,250 cases produced.

The Warre’s Vintage was picked beginning on September 18 at Quinta da Cavindha, with fruit also sourced from Quinta do Retiro and Quinta da Telhada. It is a blend of 37% Touriga Nacional, 23% Tinta Franca and 40% mixture of old vines. There is a lovely sea spray note on the 2011 Warre’s that emerges after ten minutes in the glass. It is nicely defined with a tangible mineral component. The palate is very well-balanced with fine tannins, very well-judged acidity and a languorous feel, as if everything is in place and it does not want to show off. This is a lovely, refined 2011 – one of the most elegant 2011s. This is a classic Warre’s. 3,000 cases declared. Tasted May 2013. Importer: Vineyard Brands - www.vineyardbrands.com

The 2007 Warre Vintage Port is one of the stars of the vintage. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it displays an expressive bouquet of Asian spices, incense, lavender, blackberry, and fruitcake. Plush on the palate with outstanding volume, it exhibits a sense of elegance as well as power. Savory flavors, plenty of structure for the long haul, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish suggests two decades of cellaring are in order. This superb effort should still be drinking well in 2050. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; fax (205) 980-0408