Philippe Alliet Chinon Coteau Noire, Loire, France

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While Alliet’s 2009 Chinon L’Huisserie was evidently too backward to assess at the time of my visit, it was possible to glimpse his 2009 Chinon Coteau de Noire by tasting it from the new barrels (60% of the total for the cuvee in this vintage) that had finished malo earlier. The overlay of resin and spice from new wood here does not seriously interfere with the projection of haunting lilac- and buddleia perfume, or with the scent of well-concentrated, sappy dark fresh berries that then saturate the palate. Suggestions of pecan and hazelnut cookies and salted caramel are certainly influenced by the barrel, but nicely compliment the cool floral perfume and fresh berry juices, while deep richness of marrow, forest floor, and wet stone lend mystery. This should be another beauty to follow for a decade or more, and likely to overtake the Vieilles Vignes in both complexity and refinement, although at this youthful stage, I don’t discern the superiority of one to the other. Philippe Alliet thinks his 2009s will surpass his 2005s in elegance, and comparing the 2005s today I hazard the guess that the fruit of his 2009s will stay fresh longer as well. 2009 will be the first commercialize-able vintage here in white wine, but that opulent, 14.6% alcohol wine – while it nevertheless displayed luscious potential – had not even finished its alcoholic fermentation when I visited in late June! Interestingly Alliet opined that 2008 was – in contrast with 2007 – uniform enough in ripeness that no significant triage was required. But I found precisely the more seamless ripeness of his top 2007s their advantage over 2008.A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559 1040

The “usual” 60% new barrel (albeit principally demi-muids) employed for Alliet’s 2008 Chinon Coteau de Noire struck me as too much (whereas I tasted the young 2009 exclusively from new barrel and it came off impressively). Highly resinous aromatics – mingled with just-ripe black fruits and a greenhouse like amalgam of foliage and flower – lead to a firm, smoke- and spice-tinged palate loaded with sappy, tart berry fruit, but finishing with downright gum-numbing tannin. Alliet is at pains to point out that the Coteau de Noire always needs time. But I am suspicious that this wine might remain rather stiff and charmless for the duration of its active life. Philippe Alliet thinks his 2009s will surpass his 2005s in elegance, and comparing the 2005s today I hazard the guess that the fruit of his 2009s will stay fresh longer as well. 2009 will be the first commercialize-able vintage here in white wine, but that opulent, 14.6% alcohol wine – while it nevertheless displayed luscious potential – had not even finished its alcoholic fermentation when I visited in late June! Interestingly Alliet opined that 2008 was – in contrast with 2007 – uniform enough in ripeness that no significant triage was required. But I found precisely the more seamless ripeness of his top 2007s their advantage over 2008.A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559 1040

Fennel, resin and lightly-cooked blackberry mark the nose of Alliet’s rather strongly new wood-influenced 2007 Chinon Coteau de Noire. Texturally rich and with dark, rather brooding berry fruit, resinous scrub, humus, black pepper, and crushed stone it finishes with impressive length if a bit less juiciness and certainly less energy and mineral nuance than the young-vines L’Huisserie.Philippe Alliet thinks his 2009s will surpass his 2005s in elegance, and comparing the 2005s today I hazard the guess that the fruit of his 2009s will stay fresh longer as well. 2009 will be the first commercialize-able vintage here in white wine, but that opulent, 14.6% alcohol wine – while it nevertheless displayed luscious potential – had not even finished its alcoholic fermentation when I visited in late June! Interestingly Alliet opined that 2008 was – in contrast with 2007 – uniform enough in ripeness that no significant triage was required. But I found precisely the more seamless ripeness of his top 2007s their advantage over 2008.A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559 1040