The Pfaffl 2006 Excellent – a blend of over 50% Zweigelt with Cabernet, and a bit of Merlot which I last tasted assembled in tank – preserves the bright, slightly tart cherry fruit of the former variety, which enlivens and illuminates the dark cassis, tobacco, and humus character of the Bordelaise varieties. Glycerin-rich and expansive, with nicely polished tannins and a soothing length, this offers a lot of personality, and based on previous renditions of this blend, one can expect to gain depth and nuance in bottle for the next half dozen or more years.Temporarily, the Provence of Ontario appears to be the only North American importer for the wines of Pfaffl, a circumstance that needs to change.
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