Martinelli Jackass Hill Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, USA

马丁南尼公驴山仙粉黛红葡萄酒

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The 2019 Zinfandel Jackass Hill has a medium ruby color and very pure aromas: apricots, aniseed, Earl Grey tea leaves, orange peel and exotic spices, with a core of perfumed red berry fruit. The palate offers intense, detailed flavors in a silky, super fresh frame, and it finishes very long and loaded with perfumed accents. Despite its delicate style this vintage, it hints at more, and I'd give it another 2-3 years in bottle. 101 cases were made.

Medium ruby, the 2018 Zinfandel Jackass Hill is youthfully coiled at this stage. It takes time in the glass to open to apricots, saline, tea leaves, red berries and stone, offering up more perfume as it sits in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and silky, saline on entry and fleshing out to perfumed fruits. It has addicting freshness and finishes very long and layered. Only 90 cases were made this year.

Pale to medium ruby-purple in the glass, the 2017 Zinfandel Jackass Hill has fantastic aromas of warm peach jam, boysenberry and blueberry jam, warm black fruits and underlying pie spices. Medium to full-bodied, it's wonderfully concentrated in the mouth with tricolored fruit and peachy goodness, framed by firm, grainy tannins and mouthwatering acidity, finishing very long. Only 56 cases were made.

The 2016 Zinfandel Jackass Hill is medium garnet-purple colored with a totally beguiling and sexy nose of potpourri, raspberry preserves, kirsch, cinnamon toast, nutmeg and sandalwood over a fruitcake and mincemeat pie core with a waft of milk chocolate. The palate is big alright, very rich and very full-bodied, sporting 16.7% alcohol, but forget all that—it totally seduces you in the mouth with soft, sultry tannins and plenty of freshness giving poise to all the rich, spicy, multilayered fruit, finishing epically long and wonderfully perfumed. Wow. Only 57 cases produced.

At the higher end of the alcohol spectrum, these Martinelli Zinfandels are powerful wines for sure, but I hasten to add that they are beautifully balanced and in terms of flavor, tannin and complexity, they represent the pinnacles of ripeness in every sense. Medium garnet in color, the 2015 Zinfandel Jackass Hill offers up seriously intense prunes, spice cake, Christmas pudding and chocolate box notes with a lifted undercurrent of raspberry preserves and dried roses. Super concentrated, rich and decadently fruited, this is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove wine with a finish that just goes on and on. Just 59 cases were made.