F.E. Trimbach Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives, Alsace, France

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Harboring around 65 grams of residual sugar but still 14% alcohol, Trimbach’s 2009 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive – from a preponderance of simply over-ripe rather than botrytized fruit – generously delivers brown-spiced, vanilla-tinged quince and apple jelly in the nose and on an initially luscious, oily palate, though a faintly warm and drying sizzle renders its bittersweet finish slightly awkward. I would want to revisit this in a few years to assess its longer-term potential, and although I am confident it will at the very least hold up for 15 years, it is a far-cry from the superb examples of its genre that have been more usual at this address. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2008 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive is, at 60 grams residual sugar, unabashedly and for a Trimbach V.T. surprisingly sweet. But then, it had already reached 13.7% alcohol. A remarkable nose – vegetarians beware! – suggests smoked pork, sauteed veal sweetbreads, and truffle-studded foie gras, and the palate is just as sinfully rich as the nose implies, encompassing as well a honeyed intensity of quince and mirabelle preserves; white Burgundy-like toasted brioche; and hints of brown spices. This is a meal unto itself, and for all of its amplitude reveals a sense of buoyancy. But it will take many years for the sense of sweetness to significantly back-off. One could certainly plan on following this for a quarter century. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400