8 Jon Martinez, who arrived in Washington barely six years ago, is knocking the ball out of the park. Improving with each new release, he has locked in a stellar collection of vineyards, and made Rhone-style wines his focus. This is a revelation. Pure berries, cassis, rock, earth, licorice, and a hint of baking spices. Gorgeous. ——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 95