With 4.5% residual sugar, this Riesling falls into the shadowy realm between an off-dry table wine and a dessert wine. You could have it with trout almondine or with a fruit tart. Either way, it’s crisp in acidity, with complex flavors of Meyer lemons, limes, pineapples, peaches, pears, buttercup flowers, honey and cinnamon spice. It’s also a good buy.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 87