Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia

露纹酒庄艺术系列霞多丽白葡萄酒

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2023 was a long, dry, mild season in Margaret River (certainly in the context of white wine), although there was some rain at the end of the season that, depending on the location of the vineyard, caused some challenges for some producers. From my viewpoint up in Perth (some 276 kilometers north), the season seemed to roll out in a most restrained fashion. I have been very excited to try the premium white from this season and indelibly curious about the premium reds. Tasted as a barrel sample in January 2024, this 2023 Art Series Chardonnay is inchoate at this stage, but it shows all the finesse and precision of the year that I was expecting. At this point, it is floral and waxy and defined very much by lashings of aromatic pear in every way you like it: poached, baked or fresh cut. There's loads of time before this wine will be ready for release, but I feel we will be in for a treat. The wine will be bottled and sealed with a screw cap in July or August 2024 and released in March 2025.

The 2021 Art Series Chardonnay leads with a distinctly floral nose: jasmine and white garden rose, wisteria and lemon blossom. The season was a challenging one in Margaret River, defined by the rainfall, which was constant. The temperatures were modest (not cool, as plenty of rain might suggest),and given that the region is so diverse in terms of distances between vineyard areas, this created quite a patchwork of outcomes for producers. On the palate, the wine is powerful and savory—it leans heavily on exotic dry spice and cracked honeycomb, with hints of salted butter on fresh white bread, beeswax and salted pink grapefruit. Stylistically, it is not dissimilar to the 2017; however, the dovetailing of acid and fruit feels seamless and well matched here. The wine is piercing and structural, tightly coiled and almost rigid, in the best of ways. It's an impressive wine, one that, at this stage of its life, is defined by its penetrating acid line. Sealed under screw cap. This was tasted at the estate in January 2024 as part of the annual vertical of Art Series Chardonnay. The vintage span in 2024 is 1986 to 2021 (plus the 2023 barrel sample). The wine will be released March 1, 2024.

The 2020 vintage in Margaret River was moderate to warm and will be forever remembered for the incredibly compacted harvest period, which started two weeks earlier than the 2019 harvest before it and was all wrapped up by Easter—that's largely unheard of. The 2020 Art Series Chardonnay leads with power and density, not unlike the 2018 before it. Tight and green in the glass, you get salted pear, white peach, nectarine, red apple skins, preserved citrus and crushed shell. The wine has minerality and tension within the confines of the opulent fruit. Staggering length, as usual. The winemaking remains relatively consistent across the years: hand-picked fruit from Block 20 and 22 (planted in 1976 and 1978, respectively). Thirty percent of the cuvée was whole bunch pressed to 100% new Burgundian oak, while the balance was destemmed, crushed and pressed to 100% new Bordelais oak. Sulfured post-ferment in order to discourage malolactic fermentation, both components remain in barrel for 11 months. Super wine.

Succulent and distinctive, this white opens with notes of crème fra?che, tahini and salted butterscotch that are aromatic and appealing, backed by hints of fresh-grated ginger and mouthwatering acidity and leading to a vibrant, juicy mouthful of dried pineapple, pomelo and yuzu flavors at the core. The elements are all in balance, and the tension between them yields a complex, stunning wine. Drink now through 2027. 800 cases imported.??–MW??Region: Australia / Western Australia / Margaret River Select to Add

The 2019 Art Series Chardonnay is filling out beautifully, within the confines of its svelte, mineral form. The vintage was cooler and later than either of the vintages either side, and the wines are aromatic and detailed by virtue of that. I'd still recommend leaving this wine in bottle for another couple of years; they are so slow to evolve that the primary fruit remains vital for at least the first decade. The benefit of waiting gives you extra complexity layered over the fruit, which blooms and plumes with time. The winemaking remains relatively consistent across the years: hand-picked fruit from Block 20 and 22 (planted in 1976 and 1978, respectively). Up to 30% of the cuvée was whole bunch pressed to 100% new Burgundian oak, while the balance was destemmed, crushed and pressed to 100% new Bordelais oak. Sulfured post-ferment in order to discourage malolactic fermentation, both components remain in barrel for 11 months.