Pliger Kuenhof Kaiton Riesling Sudtirol Eisacktaler, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

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The 2010 Riesling Kaiton emerges from the glass with beautiful, well-articulated layers of aromas and flavors. Lime, white flowers and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that take shape in the glass. The Kaitin possesses gorgeous inner perfume and lovely overall balance. A pure, crystalline finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Various Amerina importers, including: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159

The 2009 Riesling Kaiton is another gorgeous white from Kuenhof. Mineral notes emerge from the glass, followed by pear, citrus and smoke. This is a decidedly focused style of Riesling, but it shows fabulous depth and complexity, not to mention tons of Valle Isarco character. Subtle hints of lime and mint linger on the rich, textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Once again I was struck by the wines I tasted from Kuenhof this year. The Valle Isarco is one of my favorite terrains in Italy for highly complex, steely wines. These two whites capture the essence of regional, varietal and vintage character.Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159

The 2008 Riesling Kaiton is a vivid, bone-dry wine redolent of white peaches, minerals, crushed rocks and lime peel. The Kaiton possesses superb length on the palate in a focused, pure style that will offer its greatest pleasure at the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted this year from Kuenhof, a small estate located in Bressanone, in the northern reaches of Alto Adige. I am told the US allocation of these wines is just a few cases, but hopefully readers elsewhere will be able to latch on to a few bottles of these wonderful whites.Imported by: JK Imports/Vinissimo Selection, CA, 800-946-3329