Georges Duboeuf Clos des Quatres Vents, Fleurie, France

杜宝夫酒庄克洛斯四人管乐红葡萄酒

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Minerally undertones flank the cherry and currant flavors of this white pepper–edged red. Tangy acidity accentuates the herb and spice elements on the lightly grippy finish. Drink now through 2024. 1,000 cases made, 110 cases imported.??–GS??Region: France / Beaujolais / Fleurie Select to Add

Underpinnings of mineral, herb and tea mark the cherry and raspberry fruit in this well-balanced, light-bodied red, with elements of smoke, fresh earth and licorice lingering on the lightly tannic finish. Drink now through 2024. 1,000 cases made, 110 cases imported.??–GS??Region: France / Beaujolais / Fleurie Select to Add

From tank, the domaine-bottled Duboeuf 2010 Fleurie Clos des Quatre Vents reflects its old vines and (in part) La Madone location in a fine performance that boasts tart-edged but ripe blackberry mingled with pungent citrus oils and herbs. With cut and invigoration, it illustrates also the potential special virtues of its vintage and should prove to represent an excellent value worth following for at least 3-4 years. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

The Duboeuf 2009 Fleurie Clos des Quatre Vents – tasted from tank; and as usual, a cuvee from old vines treated to long, cool fermentation – displays ripe blackberry and blueberry, ocean breeze, black tea, borage, and bittersweet iris perfume in the nose. Silken and expansive on the palate, this is a little less intriguing but even more generous than the corresponding Fleurie Grand Pre, finishing with soothing yet stimulating length, and likely to be worth following for 3-4 years. A very ripe and concentrated but awkwardly woody “Prestige” bottling of Fleurie did not give me much hope for its post-bottling evolution.The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463