Duemani Suisassi Syrah Costa Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

杜马尼酒庄苏伊萨斯西拉红葡萄酒

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One of the icons of the Tuscan coast, this wine is a pioneer in organic and biodynamic farming, especially in this neck of the woods. The Duemani 2018 Syrah Suisassi is beautifully generous and full-bodied. The wine delivers uninterrupted waves of black and purple fruit, all followed up by spice, baker's chocolate and softly cured tobacco. As is the case with Luca D'Attoma's Cabernet Franc Duemani that I also tasted as an unfinished wine, I am pleased to say that these final results more than delivered on my expectations. This is mostly thanks to the wine's balance and power.

The 2017 Syrah Suisassi is a super Syrah in terms of density, concentration and richness. We're talking big richness here, even for the vintage, so much so that it's almost too much of a good thing. Some 30% of the fruit is sees whole-cluster fermentation. The wine ends up in barrique for 18 months. This grape is really meant for this kind of heat and concentration. It's a bomb.

There is a lot of gorgeous spice in the 2016 Syrah Suisassi, along with candied fruit, cherry and notes of blackberry. The Syrah takes very well to 20 months in oak, retaining a freshness and fruity sweetness to accompany the spice. The mouthfeel is velvety and rich. In the end, this is a fine and elegant expression of Syrah that I could envision serving with a creamy steak au poivre.

The 2015 Syrah Suisassi is a very ripe and opulent expression. If Syrah loves the summer heat, it has soaked it all up here. It is almost too much of a good thing, and the subtle nuances are buried deep within the considerable girth and width of the mouthfeel. Black fruit is followed by smoke, cured meat and spice. The wine's consistency is fleshy and thick. The oak also appears with unabashed and opulent intensity.