Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, France

拉梦内酒庄（巴塔-蒙哈榭特级园）白葡萄酒

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Muscular and powerful, the 2019 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers aromas of honeyed orchard fruit, warm spices, nutmeg, almonds, nougat, orange oil and wheat toast. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's ripe and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, resonant finish.

The 2017 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, acacia honey, fresh pastry, crushed mint, citrus oil and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, muscular and enveloping, with a deep and multidimensional core, lively acids and chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long and reverberative finish. While this is quite an open and expressive vintage chez Ramonet, the Batard will certainly reward some bottle age.

The 2016 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is lovely, offering up aromas of sweet yellow orchard fruit, iodine, lemon oil, hazelnut cream and honeycomb. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and richly textured, with considerable flesh for the vintage and a deep, concentrated core, though balanced by tangy, incisive acids. The finish is long and expansive. It's a terrific Batard that will develop beautifully in the cellar.

The 2015 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is superb, opening in the glass with a beautiful bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, tarte tatin, toasted nuts, orange zest and honey, framed by a deft touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is broad, deep and very powerful, with almost chewy structure and a long, penetrating finish. This is more blocky and foursquare than the Bienvenues, with perceptibly racier acidity, and it will require more time in the cellar.

The 2014 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up notes of citrus zest, pastry cream, subtle noisette and a framing of new oak—the prelude to a wine that is notably more tight knit and unyielding than the Bienvenues. There’s lots of power and cut here, but so much is currently held in reserve, and cellaring will be essential to realize its full potential. Interestingly, one parcel of the Ramonet's holdings in Batard-Montrachet adjoins their parcel of Bienvenues, but the other parcel is in the middle of the vineyard on the border of Chassagne and Puligny, and perhaps that explains why these grands crus are generally so different.