The Filliatreau’s 2007 Saumur-Champigny La Grande Vignole offers a fascinating nose of toasted walnuts; cassis, blackberry, and dark chocolate; plus a smoky, machine-oil like pungency and bitter-sweetness. Juicy and pungent on the palate, its tart black fruits, medicinal herbs, and piquant toasted nuts are underlain by a tobacco ash note that follows into the finish. More fascinating than fun to drink right now, this impressively-concentrated wine may improve over a year or two in bottle and will certainly prove interesting to play around with at the table.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191