Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

老电报酒庄白葡萄酒

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Coming from a single parcel of 50- to 55-year-old vines in la Crau, Vieux Telegraph's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of roughly 45% Clairette and 30% Grenache Blanc, with the balance split equally between Roussanne and Bourboulenc. Two-thirds were matured in foudre, with the other third matured in demi-muids, leading to a slightly honeyed nose with hints of toasted grain and gently warmed pineapple. It's full-bodied and creamy, balanced by a hint of bitterness on the long finish.

Hitting on all cylinders, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc boasts enchanting aromas of toasted grain, honeyed pears and ripe pineapple, with what seems like a bit of mocha or struck match as well. It's full-bodied, on the rich, corpulent side, but not overdone, remaining clean and citrusy-fresh on the lengthy finish.

A blend of 40% Clairette and 30% each Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, from vines in la Crau that average 50 years old, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc continues the excellent run for this wine. It's zesty, lime-ridden and briny on the nose, medium to full-bodied and a bit silky on the palate, but it's so fresh, citrusy and vibrant on the finish that it comes across as crisp and refreshing. I've been gradually extending the drinking windows on white Chateauneufs, as I become convinced that many of them age better than I've given them credit for in the past. This one should drink well for at least 5-6 years.

VT's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of 45% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussanne and 10% Bourboulenc, fermented in a mix of foudres, demi-muids and barriques. It's medium to full-bodied but tight, with crisp lime, lemon and pear notes carried on a silky-textured palate. You could drink this on release and enjoy it for its focus and delineation, or you could give the inner richness the time it needs (2-3 years) to emerge and soften the subtle citrus zest notes on the finish.

In just one short year, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc has blossomed into a richer wine, with ripe pineapple and tangerine flavors balanced by crisp lime notes. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts a lovely, silky texture and a long, finely nuanced finish. It should drink well for another 5-7 years.