Domaine Denis Berthaut Les Crais, Fixin, France

贝铎酒庄克莱斯（菲克桑村）红葡萄酒

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A background hint of wood toast easily allows the earthier and even more deeply pitched nose of freshly crushed aromas plum, cassis and newly turned earth. There is better volume and a bit more richness as well to the sappy and fleshy medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality on the youthfully austere finish that unlike the two prior wines, displays no rusticity.

Here too a subtle backdrop of wood frames the ultra-fresh aromas of both red and dark currants, floral and pungent earth scents. There is a marked contrast between the relatively refined mid-palate mouthfeel to the middle weight flavors that diverge materially from the moderately austere and rustic finale that is notably firmer.

Moderate reduction presently dominates the nose. Otherwise there is both good richness and volume to the more substantial and serious medium weight flavors that terminate in a vibrant, mineral-inflected and mildly austere finale that is more well-balanced.

The 2014 Fixin les Crais is limited to two barrels, one new and one used. It has a lifted black cherry and wild heather-scented nose that is very nicely defined. The palate is structured and quite terse on the entry, more masculine than I expected with good backbone and a strict blackberry, sea salt-tinged finish. This is very promising, especially considering that les Crais is not a premier cru.

Here too the reduction is strong enough to mask the underlying fruit. Otherwise there is solid intensity to the finer middle weight flavors that possess better mid-palate density as well as better overall depth on the balanced finish where the rusticity is noticeably less pronounced.