Domaine de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes, Chateauneuf du Pape, France

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Black cherries, blackberries and garrigue all appear on the nose of the dense, concentrated 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. Yes, the wine boasts some formidable tannins, but they're ripe, and the fruit is vibrant and intense, with all of the ingredients for cellaring up to two decades. With time, it might even approach the performance of the 2009 (99 points) or 2010 (100).

The magnificent 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes continues the string of successes under this label. While a bit less expressive on the nose than the other cuvées, it's impossibly voluminous on the palate. Full-bodied and expansive in the mouth, it's also rich and velvety, with ample tannic structure to support its almost overwhelming generosity. A whirl of mixed raspberries and blackberries join with salted licorice and dark chocolate, culminating in a long finish that combines more-ish salinity with the dusty essence of crushed stone.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes derives from parcels planted on classic clay and galets roulés soils. It's 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% other varieties. Tight, intense, even clenched, it's in need of several years' cellaring before it becomes truly enjoyable to drink. For now, those gorgeous black cherries are restrained behind a firm wall of tannins. Full-bodied and rich, this is ripe, it just requires patience.

Time will tell if this wine equals the stellar 2015; it's certainly very close in quality. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is a blend of approximately 75% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Syrah and the rest other permitted varieties. Tarry and deep on the nose, it delivers waves of blackberries and black cherries on the palate, framing those flavors with plenty of richness, layers of silky tannins and a long, elegant finish.