Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse, Loire, France

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Originating as usual in a particularly sweet spot low down on the Monts Damnes, Boulay’s 2010 Sancerre Comtesse leads with effusive, sweet freesia perfume, abetted by sweet lime, grapefruit, and white peach. Rich, but severely, almost hyper-concentrated on the palate, with a strong sense of bitter-edged citrus oil, it sacrifices the primary juiciness, transparency, or exchange of fruit and mineral that characterizes the best wines in the current collection (or indeed, for that matter, the vintage in Sancerre as a whole). While not alcoholically freighted – and undeniably impressively persistent – this palpably dense, persistently perfumed offering seems unlikely to achieve elegance or grace. Still, it’s a formidable contender for at least 6-8 years of bottle maturation and we’ll see what they bring. “These were the best looking and most aromatic grapes of the harvest,” notes Boulay. Perhaps somehow too good? Gerard Boulay, like Thomas Labaille, has just moved into his own spacious new warehouse-like facility along the main road from Chavignol to Sancerre. He is thrilled to at last not be constrained by tight cellar facilities, as well as to have a common location where he can show and sell, as well as raise his young wines. There has seldom, if ever, been a finer pair of vintages back to back here than 2010 and 2011, which among other things fully vindicates Boulay’s decision – which might initially have seemed too eager – to proliferate progressively more expensive cuvees. At the same time, the basic bottlings from this address – in pink as well as white – remain consistently outstanding values. (Granted, 2009 is the exception that proves the rule.) It’s a pleasure to witness the buzz beginning at last to collect both in France and abroad around this diligent grower whose wines for so long far-excelled his modest reputation. (Full disclosure: In my previous profession, I was an early importer of Boulay’s wines ... but as such, I have also had chance to taste lots of old wines from this cellar, and thus know whereof I speak!) Boulay picked from September 3-14, 2011 and began on the 25th in 2010. As if to make amends for nature’s 2009 naughtiness and any complicity for which he might have felt responsible, Boulay’s bottlings in both subsequent vintages are notably low in alcohol, rarely exceeding 13%.Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Boulay’s old vines 2008 Sancerre Comtesse bottling from within the Monts Damnes displays some of the melon-like ripe fruit that characterized his Beaujeu and Mont Damnes cuvees, but here there is surprisingly more bitterness of citrus rind and huckleberry that – together with pepper and chalk notes – make for a strong finish, but one more vintage-typical for a slight lack of refinement. Perhaps this simply needs more time in bottle – I am sure it will retain stamina for at least 4-6 years – or one of us was having a bad day on the sole occasion when I tasted. It is, to be sure, impressively concentrated and true to its site.A among those Sancerre growers whom I consider the odds-on favorites to succeed year after year, Gerard Boulay was one of the worst struck by the effects of hail and precipitant ripening, reflected in low acidity and high alcohol. He did not raise any portion of his special cuvees in cask, but kept them in tank to try to counteract the aforementioned effects of the vintage.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Boulay’s 2007 Sancerre Comtesse is decidedly softer and less refreshing, focused, or transparent to mineral nuances than the corresponding Monts Damnes – which goes a long way toward explaining why he kept it in tank rather than utilizing barrels. Honeydew melon tinged with caraway, honey, and lime zest pick up a smoky note of black and red currants on the nose, and on the palate impingement of spice, zest, and smoke serves as counterpoint to the wine’s broad richness, which is in turn reinforced by a suggestion of sweetness in the wine’s lingering, undeniably complex finish. I suspect this will be best enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. A among those Sancerre growers whom I consider the odds-on favorites to succeed year after year, Gerard Boulay was one of the worst struck by the effects of hail and precipitant ripening, reflected in low acidity and high alcohol. He did not raise any portion of his special cuvees in cask, but kept them in tank to try to counteract the aforementioned effects of the vintage.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29