Clos Saint-Jean La Combe des Fous, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

圣约翰酒庄科布德福红葡萄酒

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Plummy and chocolaty yet remarkably vibrant, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous comes across as richer and more powerful than the 2018. I'm not sure that's a good thing in this cuvée, as it's full-bodied, dense and a bit chunky at the moment—certainly enormously impressive, but without the elegance of the previous vintage. It will be interesting to see how it compares once it's in the bottle.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous features electric aromas of garrigue, exotic stone fruit, pomegranate, black cherries and perhaps even a touch of rose petals. Full-bodied and rich without being overly weighty or dense, plush and velvety on the finish yet vibrant and complex, this magnificent effort should drink well for at least a decade. From vines planted in 1905, it's approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarèse.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous is full-bodied, rich and velvety, yet it also possesses more freshness and concentrated berry fruit than the Vieilles Vignes bottling. An absolute beauty of a beast, it delivers ripe raspberries and cherries, a gentle dusting of Asian spice and a long, long finish.

From a single exposed hilltop parcel, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% each Cinsault and Vaccarèse. As the Syrah was aged in wood, there's a hint of campfire smoke here, plus layers of rich, voluptuous plummy fruit. Full-bodied and velvety in texture, this is more concentrated than even the Vieilles Vignes bottling, but it's not that much better in terms of overall quality or longevity.

A healthy 25% of this cuvée is Syrah aged in new oak, which impacts the aromas and flavors of the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous in a substantial way. Baking spices and vanilla are apparent, but there are plenty of bold red-fruit flavors to balance them out. The one wobble is that the alcohol (a whopping 16%) shows through a bit on the finish. I'd opt for drinking this plush, voluptuous wine over the near term.