Booker Vineyard The Alchemist，Paso Robles，USA

布克炼金师干红葡萄酒

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The density of Syrah and the spice/grilled herb notes typical of Cabernet Sauvignon meld together in the estate’s 2010 Alchemist, a wine of fabulous depth and overall harmony. Layers of sweet, perfumed fruit flow effortlessly to a deep, resonant finish laced with the essence of graphite and plums. The blend is 80% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, aged in neutral oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Behind Eric Jensen’s outgoing, boisterous personality lies the mind of one of the most thoughtful and introspective winemakers in Paso Robles. An unending drive for perfection means Jensen is satisfied with nothing but the very best. Over the last few years, that has led to some serious rethinking in the vineyards and cellar. Today, the wines are more polished than they have ever been. I have also included notes on the ‘22’ series of wines that spend a few extra months in barrel. The handful of 2011s I tasted were delicate, perfumed and quite pretty, but with less depth and structure than either the 2009s or the 2010s. One day, when the vineyards of Westside Paso Robles are fully understood, I have little doubt Booker will occupy a place at or near the top. Eric Jensen’s relentless passion and commitment for excellence make Booker the single most exciting emerging property in Paso Robles. Tel. (805) 237-7367, www.bookerwines.com

The 2009 Alchemist comes across as powerful, tightly coiled and quite inward. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot add considerable structure as layers of blue and black fruit saturate the palate. This is another powerful, long wine endowed with exceptional definition and a dark, brooding personality. In 2009 the blend is 65% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 10% Grenache. The wine saw 55% new barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Eric Jensen left behind a successful career as a concert promoter for a simpler life in Paso Robles, and the wine world is much richer for it. Jensen and his wife Lisa originally bought their property with the intent of growing and selling fruit but quickly caught the bug to make their own wines, which they did starting in 2005. Booker Vineyard is a fascinating property with a number of steep hillside exposures. The Jensens have had some of the best mentors one could hope for, including Justin Smith and Stephan Asseo. I tasted a wide number of wines during my visit, including a handful of the late-release ‘24’ series, which as the name implies, spent 24 months in barrel rather than the more customary 18. Winemaking is quite stripped down to the basics. The wines are fermented with ambient yeasts then go into barrel with their gross lees. Malo is done naturally. The blends are finished post-malo and the wines are bottled with no fining or filtration. Tel. (805) 237-7367; www.bookerwines.com

The 2008 The Alchemist (65% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Tempranillo, and 5% Grenache) possesses an inky/ruby/purple color along with notes of barbecue smoke, asphalt, graphite, blackberries, kirsch, loamy soil, and minerals. Intense and full-bodied as well as impeccably well-balanced, this superb effort coats the palate, but is never heavy or overbearing. It should drink well for a decade or more. Booker Vineyard has quickly established itself as one of the top sites in the Paso Robles region for Rhone varietals. This 40-acre vineyard is planted in limestone soils, just west of Highway 101, and every wine I have tasted since their debut 2005 vintage has been unapologetically Californian in flavor, exuberance, personality, and soul. The current and upcoming releases continue Booker’s Midas touch with these varietals. The red wines are nearly off the chart in terms of their aromatic complexity with stacked and packed personalities as well as brilliant balance. Tel. (805) 237-7367; Fax (805) 237-7368