The 2009 "Chosen - Jasper" is a blend of regions (Galilee, Judean Hills) and grapes (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier). The Chardonnay was aged in new oak, the others in second pass oak. Rather clean and refreshing, even with some oaky nods here and there, it has an unusual blend that gives it some character and zest, the aromatic grapes cutting through the oak and providing an invigorating nuance. It reminded me a bit of Clos de Gat's "Chanson" white, although the oak here changes its overall demeanor. Quite tasty at the moment, it is probably drinking now as well as it is going to, although it will likely hold a few years. It should make a nice summer white, while having enough body to hold up to food. It is a worthy competitor to the very nice Chosen Chardonnay Binyamina released this year. Drink now-2013. Binyamina, Israel's fourth largest winery, is pointing out expensive renovations (14 million euros) to the winery of late. As already noted in my last look at Binyamina releases, there already seemed to be some gradual uptick in quality here, whether or not because of the improvements. In fact, not everything could possibly have kicked in by then or by now. It will be interesting to watch going forward. The chief winemaker is Sasson Ben Aharon, since 2002. Winemaker Assaf Paz, with a degree from Bordeaux, who worked at Navarro, also produces wines for his well regarded family boutique, Vitkin. Consultant Marc Dworkin of Bordeaux fame (working with Stephan von Neipperg) lends a hand as well. In descending order of prestige, at the top Binyamina has the "Chosen" brand, from the Biblical Hoshen Stones; the regular Reserves; the Yogev ("farmer") brand, named in tribute to Binyamina's growers; and the Teva brand, which includes things like Emerald Riesling and Cabernet blush. It is the Chosen series that will be of most interest and rightly so, as they are generally nicely made and quite charming. Their problem tends to be that they can be a bit pricey for what they are. Finally, "The Cave" is Binyamina's boutique brand.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 534-0118
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