Tasted at the La Tache vertical at The Square. The La Tache 1990 sports a deep garnet core with brick rim. The palate is obviously from a relatively warm Burgundy vintage and delivers a surfeit of ripe, juicy and powerful red fruit infused with black truffle, leather and mint, with time a touch of rose petals. It gains more and more delineation with time, though never quite achieves the clinical precision of the 1991. The palate is full-bodied and for La Tache, quite sinewy with layers of intense, rounded, svelte red berry fruit with just a touch of piquancy. It has an enormous structure and undeniable presence, yet this bottle could not hold a torch to either the 1991 or the 1999 La Tache. Aubert de Villaine himself commented that he prefers the 1991 La Tache to the 1990 and I concur. This is a great La Tache but now with 25-years on the clock, one wonders whether it is past its peak?
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