Altare is a genius in terms of turning out gloriously ripe, multidimensional, complex wines. This top-notch effort is super-rich, perfumed, and pleasing to both the intellectual and hedonistic senses. The 1996 La Villa vino da tavola (50% Barbera and 50% Nebbiolo aged in French barriques) exhibits a stunning bouquet of cherry liqueur infused with smoked herbs, vanilla, and chocolate. Sexy, with jammy, ripe flavors, this low acid, lush, powerful wine cuts a velvety-textured, Pomerol-like silkiness on the palate. It should drink well for 7-8 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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