A little pretentious with the appellation (it could be Pouilly-Fumi¿½), but nothing but great wine in the bottle. Aromas of grapefruit, apple, mustard and wet stones are framed by gentle notes of cinnamon and toast. The palate is louder as it sizzles with razor-crisp orange, apple, peach and grapefruit, all with a proper mineral, herbal edge. Rock solid, but cheerful and universally likable. Imported by Beaune Imports. ——W.E.(7/1/2005)—— 92
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