The 2003 Condrieu is a honeyed, high alcohol, heady effort best drunk during its first 12-24 months of life.
By the way, 2002 is a horrendous vintage in the southern Rhone. I do not say that lightly, because there are some producers who made very competent wines, but my scores for that vintage tended to plateau at 87-88. However, one of the top 2002s is the Chateau St.-Cosme 2002 Gigondas, a wine that I rated 88. Tasty and sexy with fine ripeness, it reveals no signs of dilution or greenness.
The young Barruol is indeed a talented winemaker who exhibits a magical touch that is well beyond his youthful age with so many different types of wine.
A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218
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